Trek Through Mechelen, Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp and Brussels
Cruises & Beyond recently joined Visit Flanders on a 7-day Belgian le voyage, fitting in our schedule 5 of the regions major municipalities/attractions while immersing ourselves in the rich cultural legacy that Flanders has to offer. The following is an overview of all the cities/towns we visited, including hotels we stayed at and places we visited. Hopefully this inspires you to travel to Belgium and to follow our footsteps!
Mechelen
Upon meeting the group of fellow wanderlusting travel agents at Brussels International Airport, we boarded our bus and headed straight for Mechelen, a small city on the peripheral of Brussels proper. We rendezvoused with our tour guide in the center of Mechelen where the Dyle River divides the town in two and commenced a guided walking tour on a brisk and gloomy 52 degree morning.
Our guide regaled us with stories of old and modern Mechelen (it was at one time the capital of the Netherlands) and its storied beer-making history before leading us to our first stop, the Museum Hof van Busleyden.
The museum occupies the stately city palace originally built in the early 16th century during the reign of the Burgundians in Flanders. Here, we learned about the rise and fall of the Burgundians through the imagery depicted by Flemish masterpieces. While the artwork was certainly stunning, the most intriguing feature of the museum was the character of its design and layout. Recently coming out of a full-scale renovation, the museum can be best described as showcasing the otherworldly thinking of Belgian curators, as baffling as it could be at times. The pacing and path of the different exhibit rooms may confuse initially, but that feeling is quickly allayed as the emphasis on sound and the well thought out content surrounding the works offer tremendous context.
Following our brief visit at the museum, we continued our walking tour and made our way towards another museum with a far different tone. The Kazerne Dossin, a monolithic structure resembling a mausoleum of sorts, is a museum established next to the former Mechelen transit camp from which Belgian Jews and Romani were sent to concentration camps during the Holocaust in World War II. At the top of the Museum are large panoramic windows that allow you to view the original Dossin Barracks where Belgian Jews were transported primarily to the extermination camps of Auschwitz-Birkenau, and perhaps as a juxtaposition, stunning views of Mechelen. The museum itself is a poignant reminder of the unfathomable atrocities committed by the Nazi regime’s systematic persecution and extermination of European Jews. In all, over 25,000 Jew and Roma were deported via the Dossin Barracks. At the end of the war, only 1,240 of them survived. In a valiant effort to honor and remember those killed, the museum has constructed a wall of portraits for each of whom made their way through the transit barracks and did not survive. The effort to find portraits for each individual continues to this day.
Next on the itinerary was a lunch and tour of one of Belgium’s oldest standing breweries - Het Anker - a necessary reprieve from the informational and emotional overload from the morning tour. Established in 1471 (you read that right) but later bought by the family Van Breedam in 1872, Het Anker focuses on the foundations and traditions of brewing Belgian beer. The brewery is famous for its “Gouden Carolus” named after Charles V, the Holy Roman Emperor (who was raised in Mechelen), so obviously we had to try one of their variations. Pictured above is the Gouden Carolus Tripel, accompanied with a main of Mechelen cuckoo, croquettes and caramelized chicory. A very delicious combination!
Our brief morning visit to Mechelen coming to a close, we hopped on our bus and headed for our next destination: Ghent!
Ghent
Ghent is the quintessential Belgium city - it’s medieval architecture intact and well preserved, a cyclist’s paradise, a bastion of haute cuisine, festivals and nightlife. The scenery here is just magnificent!
Our stay in Ghent began with a welcome breather at our hotel, Pillows Grand Hotel Reylof. And what a beginning it was! The Louis XIV-style mansion was renovated and opened to the public in 2018 and has since consistently wowed guests. We were certainly not an exception.
The Pillows experience is very much a “coming home” feeling. This is achieved through a perfect blend of service, design and accommodation. The entrance/lobby is not staffed with your traditional hotel “receptionists,” but rather “hosts” who are there ready to help guests aside a communal table with ipads at the ready. You immediately get the impression that the hosts are genuinely caring and proud to be working with Pillows and are just as proud of their city, Ghent. Upon checking-in, our hosts gave us a rundown of the hotel and led each one of us to our rooms.
Pillows offers guests a complimentary welcome drink of your choice, as well as a stocked mini bar and Nespresso machine at no additional cost. The soft carpeting and modern chic decor of the rooms take the concept of cozy to the next level. The king-sized bed with its luxurious linens offers a guaranteed good night’s rest. And the convenience of a walk-in shower with superior toiletries tops off a 10/10 experience.
Here’s a short video highlighting a “Luxury Room” at the Grand Hotel Reylof - one of 157 on this property:
The Grand Hotel Reylof is an exceptional property and is highly recommended by Cruises & Beyond. It also has the benefit of being located close to Ghent’s traditional city center - only a 10 minute or so walk to the Graslei, one of the city’s most scenic locations. During your stay here, if you are ever at a loss for what to do in Ghent, the staff at Pillows will definitely have the best recommendations, especially if you are interested in gaining a local perspective of Ghent.
Now back to our itinerary! Our first night in Ghent was spent winding down at a popular restaurant called Cafe Theatre. Our fare for the evening included an assortment of beer and wine, beef carpaccio, a salmon main and a delectable dame blanche to finish off. Even though jet lag was setting in, some of us decided to continue the night at the suggestion of our host from Visit Flanders, who raved about a small local establishment that served Jenever, a juniper-flavored traditional gin native to only Belgium, the Netherlands and adjoining areas in Northern France and northwestern Germany. 't Dreupelkot, as the bar is known, serves over 200 flavors of Jenever and is a must visit if you are in Ghent.
Our next day was dedicated to a broad historical overview of Ghent. We began the morning with our guide, the wonderful Anne Marie De Pillecyn, who led us through an informative tour of a few must-see sights including the Ghent Altarpiece in St. Bavo’s Cathedral and the Gravensteen. Later on, we had lunch at Stadsrestaurant Belfort and enjoyed a classic Belgian stew with frites. Needless to say we paired this with a fine Belgian beer.
After lunch, our group made our way to the Museum of Fine Arts in Ghent, where we had the opportunity to witness the actual restoration process of the Ghent Altarpiece, most notably the center panel, the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. Witnessing the restoration of such a masterpiece makes one appreciate the time and dedication…
The next stop on our itinerary was a little more on the experimentation side as we visited Gruut Brewery. This is a very interesting brewery in that they produce five different varieties of beer all without hops, referred to as a style called gruut. Hops have been an essential part of the beer making process since at least 800 AD and have since dominated as the preferred beer flavoring herb. There was a time, however, when beer was flavored with different combinations of aromatic herbs before the discovery of hops, and this brewery pays homage to that style. We had the opportunity to “make our own beer” by experimenting with various herb concentrates, and found that certain flavor combinations worked much better than others. At the end of our workshop, we were able to bring home our very own 22 fluid ounce bottle of gruut enhanced with our favorite flavor combination.
After an hour of rest, we were off to our next activity. Equipped with champagne and hors d'oeuvres, we were in for an exciting VIP boat tour of Ghent, which is arguably the best way to take in the city’s beautiful architecture. The hour-long boat tour carried our group through the river Leie and was the perfect prelude to dinner. An entertaining and funny tour guide coupled with snacks, champagne and good company surrounded by Ghent’s old city architecture - what more can one ask for?
After disembarking from our boat at the Rabot towers, we walked to the restaurant Volta. One of the interesting aspects of Belgium, at least what I took away from this week-long experience, is its propensity for flawlessly converting buildings without altering the original exterior. One example was Volta. What was once a power station was superbly adapted into an open space high-end restaurant. The food here was a representation of Belgian chefs’ dedication to their craft and Michelin-level cuisine - highly original and absolutely the freshest of ingredients likely harvested/caught the same day. One thing I will note of Belgian dinners and especially at Volta - the time interval between course is quite long, so expect a sit down dinner that can last up to 4 hours!
Bruges
If there is one iconic town to visit in Belgium, it has to be Bruges. At one time the trading capital and economic flagship of the Low Countries during the “Golden Age” in the 14th through 16th centuries (Belgium, Netherlands, Luxembourg), contemporary Bruges is known for its quaint medieval city center - recognized as a UNESCO Heritage Site - and has become an extremely popular tourist destination. The city has also regained much of its economic prominence due to the major development of the Port of Zeebrugge.
A one night stay in Bruges was far too short to take in all of the sites and experiences, but it was still enough to make an impact. First things first - I want to highlight the hotel we spent the night at and why it is essential to stay here if you decide to visit Bruges in the future.
The Hotel Heritage - Relais & Chateaux, situated conveniently in the old city center, is an experience in time travel. A time when hospitality, attention to detail and quality seemed to matter much more. That’s what Hotel Heritage appealed to and that’s the experience we had immediately when walking through its doors.
The hotel itself, part of the Relais & Chateaux group, is a boutique establishment with only 22 beautifully appointed rooms. The owners are a loving couple, Johan & Isabelle, who fell in love with the idea of owning a business together. Their dream came to fruition with the two decided to take over a charming old Neo-Renaissance building which they beautifully restored to its former glory and establishing the Hotel Heritage shortly after.
The elegant lobby welcomes visitors with a warmness unmatched. The staff are ready to help with any inquiry at a moment’s notice. The quaint bar and lounge offers the perfect environment for a wind down cocktail in true classic form. Even classical music was playing in the background as I walked into my classically adorned “classic room.” The buffet breakfast in the morning came with made to order Eggs Benedict and crispy Belgian waffles, with orders being taken by a gentlemen with the most butler-esque demeanor. It was indeed an experience in a bygone heritage.
Here’s a short video highlighting a classic room in the Hotel Heritage:
Our one full day in Bruges began with a walking tour of the city’s medieval center. This is something that can be easily done by yourself with the proper research, but if you are on a time constraint like us, a guided walking tour is your best bet. There are many well-known sites to see in this UNESCO city, and our guide covered quite a bit in our short 2 and a half hour time. From the famous 83-meter tall Belfry and the Gothic style City Hall (built in 1376) to Saint John’s Hospital and the “Princely Beguinage Ten Wijngaarde” - once home to the beguines who led pious and celibate lifestyles.
When our tour was finished, we walked to Bistro L.E.S.S. for lunch. Bistro L.E.S.S. is another one of those Belgian restaurants rife with eccentricities featuring a menu that is not beholden to any one cuisine. The name of the restaurant is no surprise then, especially given the backstory of the head chef, who chose to abdicate a Michelin Star at his previous restaurant due to the undeniable pressures that come with the recognition. Less is more! It seemed his decision paid off; the courses we had for lunch were heavenly to the stomach. Starting with hamachi guacamole paired with the softest tortillas ever, topping it off with a Dim Sum style “pork and gamba” so tender and rich in flavor that you’re left wanting more, and finally finishing with the L.E.S.S. chocolate tart with dulce deleche. Just pure excellence!
With our palates content, we headed back to the Hotel Heritage for some much needed rest after a long morning. Next on the itinerary was no surprise - more food! Another special treat arranged by our trade manager from Visit Flanders. The restaurant is called Kok au Vin and is located near the center of Bruges. A modern Belgian restaurant that boasts a Mibrasa charcoal oven for optimal control of air flow through the grill, we were in for a cooking perfection clinic. Our dinner was highlighted by a delicious mussel soup and a perfectly cooked duck breast. Kok au Vin touts its focus on fresh and local ingredients, but even then it was still a surprise when one of our group members found remnants of shot gun pellets lodged beneath the outer layer of his duck meat. Not to worry, our chef assured, as these pellets were not lead. With our fears abated and an appreciation that our duck was hunted the day of, we continued to enjoy yet another pleasant Belgian meal. It was the perfect conclusion to our stay in Bruges.
Antwerp
Early the next morning, we checked out of the hotel and began a 2 hour bus ride from Bruges to the next Belgian city, Antwerp. Arriving at our hotel in Antwerp, the Hotel August, we quickly dropped off our luggage and proceeded to hop back on the bus so we could make our way to the Red Star Line Museum. A short little history lesson: two million passengers traveled from Antwerp, the Red Star Line’s main European port, to North America on board Red Star Line ships. Between 1873 and 1935, Antwerp was the gateway for more than 2 million immigrants from Europe to the United States. About a quarter of the 2 million were Jews fleeing persecution from the Nazi regime. The Red Star Line Museum is much more than just a place for artifacts to live. It is a place where stories are told and brought to life as vividly as possible. It is indeed a necessary experience to have.
After our visit to the museum, we enjoyed a nice little stroll across the Willem dock before we sat down for lunch at Restaurant Mon to enjoy some Belgian steak. The steak here was very flavorful, except maybe a little bit on the tough side. Nonetheless, we indulged in a delicious Beef Carpaccio topped with arugula and shaved Parmesan and had once again delightful wines to accompany.
With another solid meal in the books, it was now time to begin our condensed walking tour of Antwerp. Upon first impression, Antwerp is a very diverse and lively city with people seemingly from all parts of the world calling it home. In fact, according to Belgian socialists, it is projected that in 2020 55% of the Antwerp population will be of migrant background. Needless to say, Antwerp is a city with much to offer, and we definitely witnessed that on our walking tour as we trekked from the old city square where the regal Cathedral of Our Lady stands to the famous fashion district and the architectural masterpiece that is the Antwerp Central Station. We ended our tour ceremoniously with a quick walk-through of Chocolate Nation, the largest Belgian chocolate museum in the world, (which also happens to be at the gateway of Antwerp’s Chinatown). What a miraculously fun museum this was despite only having around 45 minutes to get through it all. As you jump from exhibit to exhibit with a personal audio guide, you learn of the essential history of how Belgian chocolate became such a renowned commodity. Luckily, we were also able to get some chocolate tastings and, yes as you guessed, it was delicious.
We returned to the Hotel August to check in before dinner. The hotel was a former Augustinian convent, hence it’s name, and was just recently re-purposed as what they call “a modern-day sanctuary that embodies it’s sacred soul while charming one and all with modernist touches in every intricate detail.” And this is all true! Again hearkening to Belgian architects’ and designers’ skill in preserving the old, the hotel has an unfamiliar hotel layout. The reception desk in the main building leads rather inconveniently into the bar and restaurant, without a dedicated pathway to the hotel rooms. There is only one elevator for the three floors, and it is also hard to find. Otherwise, you can decide to brave the stairs if you room is on the upper floors. While the inconvenience of getting to your room is a drag, when you open that door to your room you will be blown away. Flawless details, high ceilings, a huge bathroom with walk-in shower, and just a poetically curated living space. Here are some sample photos from Hotel August:
One super highlight of this hotel is the bar. It is just absolutely stunning and is clearly a testament to the architect’s ability to re-imagine a space that unifies all of its elements. What was once the chapel of the convent has now become a state-of-the-art bar, where natural light flows through the large chapel windows, and warm furnishings complement the modern luxuriousness of the bar island. The beautifully restored columns and high ceilings make this an establishment to remember and the perfect central point to a hotel that is sure to attract many visitors. Not to mention the fun and knowledgeable young bartenders endowed with exquisite cocktail crafting abilities.
Obviously, if I haven’t mentioned it enough, there is something to be said about Belgium interior designers/architects. Our group was once again left speechless when we had dinner at Zoen, a modern restaurant inspired by fine-dining kitchens and one clearly in the business of arousing senses. Our group was even sat at a table that enveloped one of the restaurant’s herb gardens! From the tender wild boar to the surprisingly enjoyable stingray, this was probably one of the better meals our group had.
Brussels
The final city on our Belgian itinerary was Brussels, the center of the European Union. And since our agenda involved packing in as much as possible into a day and a half, we were quick to get started upon leaving Hotel August in Antwerp early in the morning. Once we arrived at the outskirts of Brussels an hour later, we picked up our guide who led us on a bus tour of the Atomium, Laken (home to the Belgian royal residence) and other notable landmarks, followed by lunch at Cafe Victor Bozar and a chocolate workshop with the impressive Laurent Gerbaud himself. We had a chance to make our own dark chocolates with condiments of our choice and many of us left the workshop with much more chocolate from the main store and cafe, including myself.
We then bused to our hotel for the next two evenings, the Steigenberger Wiltcher’s Hotel located in the posh fashion district of Brussels. If we had to have a competition for which hotel on this trip had the most impressive facade, the Wiltcher’s would win with flying colors. I mean, just look at it:
Of course, the rooms are impressively appointed and LARGE, certainly befitting of a 5-star establishment. However, the lack of high quality coffee in their lower tier rooms, such as the one pictured above, and the average to above-average breakfast buffet leave some room for improvement. Nonetheless, it is a hotel that offers the best of the best in comforts and the luxurious ambiance will have you feeling like a star.
Our full day in Brussels the day after began at a very unique exhibit that explored the works and impacts of Belgium’s most significant artist of Flemish Renaissance painting, Pieter Bruegel the Elder. The exhibit, called the Beyond Bruegel exhibit, literally brings to life Bruegels’ works through animation and 360 degree multi-media effects, immersing the observer in his perspective of the world during the middle of the 16th century. It is indeed a very interesting introduction into Bruegel’s fascinating work.
The rest of the day was spent on a walking tour through the old city center of Brussels, appreciating the various architectural feats of every era this city has traversed. Brussels is a lively city, even more diverse than Antwerp, and it is where modern European idea intersect. While on our tour, we even came across a rather peaceful protest on climate change. But after a full afternoon of walking, it was time for us to close our journey in Belgium with a fitting meal at Rouge Tomate, preceded by some excellent cocktails from Alice Cocktail Bar a floor above. As we enjoyed cocktails with flair in a classically elegant bar and then Haute French cuisine in a contemporary dining space a level below, I could only think of how fitting this was to end a fantastic introduction to the ever eccentric Belgium.
